Anticlockwise Ausangate hike – by bike

“Is this fun?” I think¬†to myself stopping briefly to gasp on Ausangate’s thin air¬†and ponder the value¬†of my efforts. Stopping means no forward progress so I quickly get back to work and continue to haul¬†my laden bike up the¬†steep grassy slopes. I feel slightly dizzy due to my lack of good acclimatisation but, at last,…

Is Machu Picchu obligatory? Cusco

Whilst hiking through the jungle recently I stumbled across¬†some rather pleasing looking buildings. Even though photos of this iconic structure¬†have been¬†published an inordinate number of times and 8 versions of almost identical photos probably exist¬†somewhere on the web, I can’t¬†quite help myself. Llama interlude More photos of MP With two days of travel effort it…

Slow down if you must but don’t stop – Huancavelica to Cusco

Keep going you lazy ****. Just find the damn groove. Don’t blow yourself up by going too fast but¬†equally don’t stop altogether; find the sustainable pace that’s not overwhelmingly painful that allows you to keep making progress.¬†Even if you’re hardly moving it’s better than stopping and making no progress whatsoever. If you know you can’t…

(Not) High on Ayahuasca – Iquitos

Famous for its healing properties, ‘purging’, psychedelic visions and mental revelations, I headed¬†back into the jungle near Iquitos to explore the notorious¬†ayahuasca ‘medicine’. Although I had¬†no particular ailment to cure, my interest had been sparked by hearing of the positive life altering experiences of others. A¬†reputed retreat centre was chosen rather than try a random…

Into the Amazon Jungle from Lagunas, Peru

Unsatisfied with¬†the shortness of my trip (!!) on the 30th August I decided to head North and fly out of Lima¬†in completely the wrong¬†direction. The Amazon jungle is a significant part of the South American continent so I had felt uncomfortable about the idea of skipping it. The seed had been sown when¬†passing the turn…

Escape from Huaraz – and a massive 4000 metre dirt descent (to Lima)

Huaraz is a great place to rest and restock. However it has a problem. It is right by the¬†monumentally¬†distracting¬†Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash. A short planned stay of a few days can easily turn into a few weeks. Throw in an inconvenient bout of suspected pneumonia (self-diagnosed) and of course the standard¬†tedious upset tummy and suddenly…