…there were a still a few remaining adventures to be eked out before I ran out of land….not since the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica had I ridden my bicycle along an actual beach. With not a soul in sight, it’s hard to exaggerate the sense of peace I felt riding through this special place.
On the vast open stretches of Argentinian pampa even a small headwind can induce boredom and I occasionally fantasised about a speedy arrival in Ushuaia after so much time on the road. These thoughts were normally fairly fleeting, however, and would be rapidly alleviated by a favourable change in wind direction, the appearance of a world class geographical feature or some kind of entertaining interlude.
Time to strap on the backpack…. It’s -10C as I lie in the dark, waiting for the next 100 km/h gust. Each one worse than the last. Then it hits… A surge of adrenaline courses through my body as the tent is flattened against my entire body once again… I have been unable to stake out the tent on the hard rocky ground, and it feels like I might get blown off the mountain.
“Viento en contra o al favor?”. Notably off-colour with some kind of fever, I was doubting whether I should head off into the desert at all. “Oh you’ll have a strong tailwind, definitely a tailwind”, replied the farmer. Not twenty minutes later I was experiencing the strongest headwind of my life.