The last couple of months in Mexico have been a bit less of a hardcore biking challenge (aside from the occasional days cycling in 35 C degrees up and down the hilly coastline) and I find myself increasingly taking longer breaks from the bike in places that are almost impossible to leave. I think this has happened for a few reasons. Firstly, after long periods of solitude on the bike, forging bonds with people for more than one day seems to be very highly valued. Leaving and breaking these bonds is predictably painful. Secondly after months of non-stop cycling and camping in mountains, snow and wilderness, being able to stop somewhere for more than one night is exceptionally appealing and hard to resist; particularly when I know that the alternative is 35 C degrees of heat with fast Mexican traffic. Thirdly, I enjoy being able to reflect on the experiences I’ve had and what the future holds. Sometimes I’ll right down my insights and philosophies that come to me on the bike. As the days goes past I can feel myself changing as my priorities in life gradually shift.
I want to make Tierra Del Fuego by the end of this year and I know I’ll be penalised for my breaks later but I want to make the most of these places; who knows if I’ll ever be here again (the world is big and there are infinite other places to see).
Instead of going through the laborious detail of the last few months (much has happened) here are some of the highlights in the order they happened:
– staying in an amazing apartment with Razvan in Manzanillo; staying with Iván and a fun night out in Lázaro Cardenas; surfing awesome waves/ staying with Pedro in Troncones. Thank you so much to all of you.
– epic surfing, fast endless left hand walls of water at Nexpa. Also, amazing sessions at: La Ticla, The Ranch (near Troncones).
– 2 weeks in Acapulco with the Reyes family. Generously they gave me my own apartment, took me to La Quebrada cliff diving, fixed my tooth and overfed me but what I will treasure most is spending time with such kind and fun people (and Rocco eating my flip flops).
– Seeing all the amazing beaches and bungy jumping in Acapulco with Diana!
– Mexican fiestas and fantastic hospitality with Bulmaro and Ulises in Copala. Being forced to dance in front of 80 people with the only other single woman. And again being massively overfed!
– More exceptional hospitality with the cousins of the Reyes family at Casa Aldegundo in Huaxpaltepac; visiting their ‘rancho’ and eating coconuts with Emanuel and Francisco.
– Oaxaca – the incredible ruins at Monte Alban, jaw dropping views at Hierve el Agua (worth the drive), widest tree in the world, Spanish lessons with Celso at Amigos del Sol and staying with José Alfredo who gave up his bed for me! (ask for the Pedro Cardinez Bike shop in Oaxaca; there’s also another shop (Zona Bici) just southeast of the zócalo which is very well stocked – the first Mexican bicycle shop to have my shoe size!).
– seeing Luke from Australia surf the world famous Puerto Escondido – the Mexican equivalent to Hawaiian ‘pipeline’ – on his own, catching a monster wave and escaping the barrel. Size: triple overhead. (good bicycle shop: ask for Bici Tello in Puerto (I think it’s called, near Mercado Benito Juárez), great friendly service and cheap).
– Mazunte – currently here overstaying my intended time frame yet again. Camping at La Isla hostal – good spot on the beach.