I´ve been spending the last week in a nice little surf town called Sayulita. Although somewhat touristy it has a good vibe to it and has proven to be another excellent place to have some time off the bike.
The trip down from Mazatlan was interesting. The first few days I was with Billy and we pushed some reasonable kilometres even though we experienced unusually high temperatures; always meaning to start early, we inevitably left later and were punished by the scorching midday sun.
Our first night we stayed in Escuinapa, a nice little town where everyone was exceptionally friendly. This may be in part because they rarely get any tourists but also because bicycles are a major use of transport around town; so I think they took special appreciation to our trip. Due to limited budgets for such a long journey, Billy took the initiative of asking to sleep in the town hall (although we initially thought it was a police station due to high police presence). Tony and Carlos, who worked for the President of the town, took us out and very kindly bought us dinner. I mainly sat there watching Billy talk Spanish to them; I think I managed to decipher one word every ten minutes. We slept in the president´s boardroom.
The gold bicycle in the main plaza; a pivotal part of the community.
Moody and very hot; over 30 degrees C. Tough going on some of the hills.
After Escuinapa, we pounded out a not-unreasonable 130km or so to Ruiz. Exhausted and slightly feverish we found an exceptionally low budget hotel. Badly in need of work, I´ll spare the details but this place was pretty filthy and by far the grimmest of the trip. The town was interesting and again we were somewhat of a novelty since no tourists ever really go here which meant for some interesting conversations. It amused me to be there, only by bicycle would I ever have been in such a place.
The next night we stayed in San Blas and after that we stopped at a reasonably pleasant little beach full of beach restaurants called Platanos.
Platanos beach: Billy and I paid 25 pesos (~$2 each) to camp in this run down building at the end of the beach. Great view but the bugs proved a bit of an issue and I wouldn´t recommend camping there (unless this was a bad year for some reason). Tiny bugs that are small enough to crawl through the mesh of a mosquito net mean a poor night´s sleep. Packing up in the morning was also somewhat tedious getting attacked by thousands of these little insects. It was a relief to get back on the road where I said bye to Billy and headed to Sayulita where I´ve spent the last few days.
I guess I´ll leave Sayulita eventually. The only thing I wish I had here is my surf board. The sound of the ocean at night is loud and it can be relaxing but also thought provoking. I have a neighbour on the beach who keeps reminding me we´re on the San Andreas faultline but any worries disappear almost as quickly as they’re said. The occasional day I cycle the ´long´ 15 minutes to town to get supplies, the rest are spent studying Spanish and watching the rare person come onto the beach on foot or horseback. There´s a spot marked off where some turtles have laid eggs, perhaps they’ll hatch when I´m here…